Mazury to bezapelacyjnie cud natury. Odwiedzam je co najmniej raz w roku, a jeśli okoliczności pozwalają – znacznie częściej. Nad jeziorami czuje się najlepiej. Wypoczywam aktywnie, lecz czasami także całkowicie gnuśnie, wyłączam umysł i daję przyrodzie wniknąć w niego po mikrokomórki. Weekend w Rucianym ładuje mi baterie bardziej, niż niejednokrotnie tygodniowy urlop za granicą. Dlatego gdy będąc w Bergamo postanowiliśmy zrobić sobie wycieczkę nad Como, czyli trzecie co do wielkości włoskie jezioro, zastanawiałam się czy spełni moje wyśrubowane kryteria. Owszem, może i jest najgłębsze w Alpach i znajduje się w czołówce najgłębszych w Europie, ale dla mnie nie tylko imponujące dane mają znaczenie – muszę czuć to coś, co spowoduje, że odetchnę pełna piersią, zamknę oczy i przeniosę się do krainy spokoju.
Miejscowości nadbrzeżnych jest kilka i można je objechać zarówno od strony lądowej, jak i wodą – liczne promy i łodzie gwarantują bardzo przyjemny sposób poznawania okolicy. Przy odrobinie szczęścia ( żartuję, zakładam, że łatwiej jest zakreślić 6 w Totka) można spotkać Georga Clooneya albo Madonnę, którzy mają tam swoje wypasione rezydencje wakacyjne. Zresztą także samemu można się poczuć w tych okolicach iście gwiazdorsko, a to ze względu na fakt, że jezioro stanowiło tło kasowych hitów, takich jak chociażby Casino Royale. Ja tam Bondów nie oglądam, podobnie zresztą jak Gwiezdnych Wojen, ujęcia do których podobno również kręcono w tamtych plenerach, ale wierzę na słowo ulotkom Włoskiej Izby Turystycznej.
My wybraliśmy Lecco, Alpejskie Miasto Roku 2013, do którego dojechaliśmy pociągiem z tego samego dworca, co do Mediolanu. UWAGA – bilet kasujemy jeszcze na peronie! O ile mnie pamięć nie myli był on ważny przez 3 godziny, co jednak nie pozwoli na jazdę “na nim” w te i z powrotem. Podróż w jedną stronę trwa ok 40 minut, do czego należy dodać kilka godzin w samym miasteczku…Na szczęście bilet nie jest drogi, całą podróż zamkniemy w przybliżeniu w 30 zł od osoby.
I mimo, iż wyczytaliśmy gdzieś, że do jeziora dochodzi się ulicą schodzącą w dół bezpośrednio z dworca, to trzy zatrzymania przy witrynach sklepowych sprawiły, żeśmy zabłądzili. Ale podobno trasa jest wyjątkowo prosta.
Najwięcej czasu spędziliśmy nad wodą i muszę przyznać, że to były naprawdę odprężające chwile. Mimo że cała okolica wygląda jak żywcem wyjęta z serialu “Doktor z alpejskiej wioski” albo z jakiejś francuskiej komedii romantycznej (nie znam ani jednego tytułu tego gatunku filmowego, ale właśnie tak to sobie wyobrażam), my jednak porzuciliśmy włóczenie się po wąskich, uroczych uliczkach na rzecz gapienia się w taflę jeziora i karmienia ptaków. Nie, nie jesteśmy jeszcze na emeryturze i nie dokucza nam podagra – to po prostu było naprawdę przyjemne.
Po wyzbyciu się całości suchego prowiantu doszliśmy do wniosku, że tak naprawdę sami jesteśmy głodni. Bić się z mewami o resztkę biscotti nie wypadało, więc zapytaliśmy w informacji turystycznej o knajpę z typowo lokalnym jedzeniem. Następnie ponad godzinę próbowaliśmy znaleźć to miejsce, po drodze tęskno spoglądając w stronę budek z frytkami. Ale nie, słowo się rzekło, miejsce rekomendowane, albo tam, albo umieramy z głodu w wyjątkowo ładnych okolicznościach przyrody.
Po niezłej przeprawie – dotarliśmy. Menu tylko po włosku, bez obrazków, więc czysto intuicyjnie decydowaliśmy czy to będzie żabnica czy może baton Mars smażony w głębokim tłuszczu. Zastosowaliśmy więc metodę, którą praktykowałam na testach z chemii, a mianowicie wyliczankę. Niestety nie sprawdziła się tak dobrze, jak na klasówkach. Co szalenie istotne zrezygnowaliśmy tego dnia z pizzy (niewybaczalny błąd), na rzecz, jak się później okazało – polenty (której nieznoszę), wędlin (jestem jaroszką) i źle przyrządzonych ryb. Oraz takiego żółtego czegoś w białym czymś, co przypominało zupełnie nic. Totalnie na tarczy, dlatego link z rekomendacją się nie pojawi. Cóż, nie zawsze lokalnie i swojsko znaczy smacznie (czego przykładem może być zupa owocowa serwowana w ośrodkach kolonijnych. Zło w czystej postaci).
Głodni ruszyliśmy na dworzec, projektując sobie w głowie obraz pizzy, które w Bergamo robią wyśmienitą. Bez względu jednak na rozczarowanie gastronomiczne wracaliśmy w pełni zadowoleni. To był naprawdę ekstra dzień. Taki na 5 z plusem. I chociaż żadnego miejsca na ziemi nie ukocham tak jak Rucianego, to muszę z czystym sumieniem przyznać, że Jezioro Como naprawdę daje radę.
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