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Pozostanę jeszcze na chwilę w klimacie nazwijmy to gastronomicznym. Otóż tego dnia Sebek wypatrzył sobie dość osobliwy deser, a mianowicie smażonego w głębokim tłuszczu Marsa. Nie jest on pyszka, ani trochę. Mimo, iż wszystkie dziwaczne dania ze świata, których kosztujemy, typu skorpiony czy robale, smakują zazwyczaj “jak kurczak”, w tym przypadku otrzymacie po prostu zwykłego batona, jeno utaplanego w średnio świeżym oleju. Oczywiście o gustach się nie dyskutuje, niemniej jednak sugerowałabym nie nastawiać się nadmiernie na jakieś wybitne doznania dla podniebienia, jakkolwiek pięknie nie byłyby one reklamowane (jeśli chodzi o rozkosz dla oczu w kategorii prezentowania produktów sprzedawcy oblegający turystyczne części szkockich miast są zdecydowanie mistrzami).
Zwiedzanie właściwe rozpoczęliśmy od edynburskiego Zamku, będącego jedną z bardziej okazałych, a zarazem leciwych fortec Wielkiej Brytanii. Jego fortyfikacje oraz mury zachowują ponoć swoją oryginalną formę już prawie 800 lat. Budowla znajduje się na granitowym szczycie wygasłego wulkanu, monumentalnego Castle Rock. Szczęśliwie wcześniej wdrapaliśmy się na górę (wspinaczkę przerywając posiłkiem w pubie), więc nie odczuliśmy nazbyt dotkliwie wejścia na 120 metrów n.p.m. W drodze do Zamku trafiliśmy na coś fantastycznego – położone przy Castlehill Kamerę Obscurę i Świat Iluzji, których początki sięgają pierwszej połowy XIX wieku. Zachwyciły mnie zwłaszcza lustra wydłużające i wyszczuplające optycznie nogi. Wyborne. Niemalże vis-a-vis tej iście lunaparkowej atrakcji znajdziecie natomiast Scotch Whisky Experience, oferujące część artystyczną, czyli m.in. edukacyjna przejażdżkę w specjalnej beczce i część degustacyjną. Uprzedzając pytania – tanio nie jest. Destylarni i sklepów z whisky jest zaś wszędzie od groma, więc jeśli zależy Wam tylko na zakupie pamiątkowej butelki możecie sobie spokojnie odpuścić te topowe punkty, na rzecz mniejszych i bardziej oddalonych od głównych szlaków turystycznych.
Wspomniana Castlehill jest jednym z trzech najważniejszych ciągów ulic, obok Lawnmarket i High Street, które przylegają do głównej drogi starówki, czyli 1,5 kilometrowej Royal Mile. Nie bez kozery “Królewska Mila” przyciąga wszystkich turystów – oprócz licznych muzeów wzdłuż traktu, na jego przeciwległych końcach ulokowano dwa kluczowe zabytki. Z jednej strony Zamek, z drugiej zaś Pałac Holyrood, do którego doszliśmy dokładnie w godzinę zamknięcia. Porobiliśmy więc tylko zdjęcia, także starym grobowcom pobliskiego cmentarza. Było tyle do zobaczenia w tzw. międzyczasie, że do rezydencji monarchów brytyjskich w Szkocji, odwiedzanej m.in. przez Królową Elżbietę, dotarliśmy dopiero późnym popołudniem. Wcześniej relaksowaliśmy się trochę w ogrodach Princes Street Gardens, znajdujących w dolinie pomiędzy Old Town a New Town. Pośrodku ogrodu (…siedzi ta królewska para…) znajduje się sztuczne wzgórze, na którym ulokowano mi.n. tak istotne budynki jak Royal Scottish Academy, National Gallery of Scotland oraz Bank of Scotland. Po przyjemnym chillu wśród zieleni udaliśmy się natomiast w kierunku budowanego w czasach oświecenia Nowego Miasta. Powstało ono głównie w celu poprawy fatalnych warunków bytowych mieszkańców Starówki, na której brakowało kanalizacji, a wąskie i kręte uliczki wzmagały i tak duże ryzyko pożarów. Z tego względu w nowej dzielnicy powstały szerokie i wygodne trakty, obsadzone kluczowymi urzędami i pięknymi rezydencjami. Żeby się nie zgubić nie zbaczaliśmy zbytnio z Princess Street, nonszalanckie włóczenie się bez mapy zostawiając sobie na magiczną starówkę. Spacerem ten dzień stał i był to jeden z ciekawszych, a jednocześnie wcale nie tak męczących jakby można było wnosić po liczbie pokonanych kilometrów, spacerów w naszym turystycznym dorobku.
Z ogromnym żalem opuszczaliśmy szkocką stolicę. Tak dużo do zobaczenia, tak niewiele czasu. Z jednej strony niezliczona ilość zabytków, z czego całkiem sporo must see z turystycznej listy. Z drugiej zaś chęć niespiesznego spacerowania, podziwiania prześlicznych sklepowych witryn, napawania się niepowtarzalnym klimatem. Cały czas mieliśmy wrażenie przeniesienia się w czasie, całkiem poważnie wypatrywałam Sherlocka Holmesa i Dr. Watsona w którejś ze stylowych knajp (tak, wiem, najsłynniejsze muzeum poświęcone wybitnemu detektywowi znajduje się przy Baker Street w Londynie, niemniej jednak autor powieści o Sherlocku, sir Arthur Ignatius Conan Doyle, przyszedł na świat nie gdzie indziej, a w Edynburgu), a widok dam w sukniach i dżentelmenów w cylindrach wcale by mnie nie zszokował. Tam każdy budynek zdaje się nieść za sobą jakąś historię, trochę mroczną, na pewno tajemniczą, bo jakież inne mogłyby się dziać w tym magicznym mieście. Zachwyciła mnie także spójność architektury, brak obrzydliwych billboardów, pstrokacizny elewacji i kompozycji od sasa do lasa. Nawet jeśli jakiś budynek mieści w sobie nowoczesne biura i punkty usługowe, to i tak wygląda jak wyjęty żywcem z lat dawnych. Zresztą nie jestem odosobniona w swoim zachwycie. Taki np. Advocates Close, położony w samym sercu Starego Miasta, otrzymał w 2014 najwyższą nagrodę w dziedzinie szkockiej architektury. Jak wskazano w uzasadnieniu werdyktu kapituły łączy on w sobie współczesność z duchem historii, robiąc tym samym ukłon w stronę spuścizny narodowej. Mam nadzieję, że niebawem także w Polsce będziemy mogli cieszyć się prawdziwym urokiem miast, a nie kaleczyć oczy paskudnymi reklamami, odblaskowymi szyldami od czapy i neonami a’la uboga siostra Las Vegas.
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